Tuesday, November 03, 2009

yeast pizzas #1 & #2

(ed note: post written between 11/2 and 11/3!)

ok, cooked some chicken thighs, and want to try to recreate alfredo chicken pizza! These are a different crust, I think I used the CPK crust for the previous version.

yeast #1: this one is based on sourdough #2, but without sourdough this time. Please note that while you can use the volumetric measurements, I definitely recommend the weight measurements, you will get more consistent results, and it will scale more accurately. My Salter scale only does even-numbered measurements in grams, and doesn't do gram fractions.

Makes 1 large pizza (14" to 16")

3 c + 2 tbsp bread flour -439g - (100%)
1 c lukewarm water 242g (55.1%)
2 tbsp wheat germ 12g (2.7%)
3 tbsp white sugar 44g (10%)
2 tbsp olive oil 28g (6.3%)
1.5 tsp active yeast 5.5-6g (1.2%)
2 tsp table salt 15g (3.4%)

Assume room temp 75 degrees; if warmer, shorten rise times; if colder, increase, etc.
  1. Combine flour, water, wheat germ, and sugar in mixing bowl; knead with hook for about 2 minutes at speed 2, until combined.
  2. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes.
  3. Now add yeast, olive oil, and salt.
  4. Knead with dough hook for 5 minutes at speed 2.
  5. Place in covered container to rise about 1 hour; didn't quite double; fold dough and replace.
  6. Refrigerate covered for 17.75 hours (went in at 11pm, out at 450pm next day)
  7. Remove from fridge, let come to room temp for 1 hour.
  8. Preheat oven to 550F, pizza stone 2nd shelf from top. No steam this time!
  9. Let dough rise 1 more hour (2 hours total)
  10. Shape dough, place on parchment, dock, sauce, cheese, meat, and more cheese.
  11. Bake for 8 minutes.

Results:
  • Probably my best commercial pizza imitation to date!
  • Crust browned perfectly on bottom, super thin browning, with perfect spongy chew
  • Dough cooked all the way thru, very tender and light.
  • Dough has a sweeter flavor; I don't miss the honey at all!
  • Didn't notice any effect of the wheat germ at all?
  • Crust edges have nice browning
  • Would I change anything? Probably not! :) This is almost as good as it gets.
For next time:
  • Possibly pull the dough out a little thinner; a true "pizza screen" would be great for this, not that bullshit aluminum disc from Target, which seems to reflect more heat than it absorbs.
  • Possibly a bit more wheat germ? Or try some whole wheat? Not very nutty, probably could use a bit of nuttiness, but even if not, this crust is "da best" so far.
Ratings:

  • Crust thickness (1=thin CPK, 3=normal PJ Dominos, 5=thick Chicago style): 3
  • Crust rise (1=no bubbles/some bubbling/5=big bubbles everywhere): 3
  • Crust crunch (1=eiscafe soft, 5=cracker hard): 3
  • Crust blistering (1=no blistering, 5=clear, perfect blistering): 2
  • Crust chew (1=not chewy,5=very chewy): 4
  • Crust doneness (1=dough still raw, 5=browned and cooked through): 5
  • Crust texture hole size (1=small, 3=med, 5=large): 3.5
  • Crust texture hole regularity (1=even, 3=a little irregular, 5=very irregular): 3.5
  • Crust browning: (1=pale/white, 3=browning, 5=chocolate brown): 4.5-5
  • Crust sourness (1=not sour, 5=very sour):1
  • Crust sweetness (1=not sour, 5=very sour):3-4


yeast #2: this one is built roughly on Petezza's Papa John's clone and uses the Expanded Calculator, and close to Pete's percentages with these changes:
--slightly higher hydration
--significantly more yeast
--slightly less oil
--honey instead of sugar, and slightly less amount

It has more yeast than the original recipe, but only about 1/2 the yeast of #1, so it will likely need to stay in the fridge for about 48 hours.

Makes one 21oz dough ball, for one 14" pizza

Flour (100%): 358 g - slightly less than 2.5 cups
Water (57%): 204 g - about 3/4c + 2 tbsp
Honey (4%): 14.3 g - a hair over 2 tsp
Active dry yeast (.6%): 2.14 g - a hair over 1/2 tsp
Vegetable (Soybean) Oil (7%): 25 g - about 2 tbsp + 1/2 tsp
Salt (1.75%): 6.27 g - about 1.5 tsp - SALT IS MORTONS KOSHER, weights are for such.
Total (170.35%): 607.71 g | 21.44 oz | 1.34 lbs

NOTES: this dough was VERY oily to come together, and didn't knead well in the mixer (oild just caused it to flop around a lot, using the same recipe style as #1 above, so I'm modifying it now.
  1. Combine all ingredients EXCEPT SALT, about 2 minutes.
  2. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes
  3. NOW ADD SALT.
  4. Knead in stand mixer for 5 minutes.
  5. Cover in tub and let rest in warm place for 1 hour.
  6. Refrigerate for ~18 hours (in at 1135pm, out at 545 pm the next evening)
  7. Remove from fridge, let come to room temp for 1 hour.
  8. Preheat oven to 550F, pizza stone 2nd shelf from top. No steam this time!
  9. Let dough rise 1.25 more hour (2.25 hours total)
  10. Shape dough, place on parchment, dock, sauce, cheese, meat, and more cheese.
  11. Bake for 8-10 minutes (check at 8, maybe leave in 10, depending on the size of the pie).
Results? We'll see on Friday, probably.

11/5 results update:
Well, I made the mistake AGAIN of using that worthless perforated pizza pan. That POS aluminum seems to reflect more heat (think aluminum foil) than it absorbs. As a result there was no browning on the bottom crust at all.

On the upside the crust was flavorful, and after 10 minutes in the oven, at least it was cooked thru and not raw. The crust edges were nicely browned too.

Also, using the pie pan, I was able to stretch the crust super thin, which, in addition to the docking, would have made a really nice thin crust, closer-to-NY style pie. In addition, I know now that this recipe makes enough for a 16" pie with a nice thin crust (that's the size of my pan.)

This crust had less sweetness than #1, and perhaps a little more crispness/less softness due to lower sugar. Seemed just about as oily. I like the oilier crust, tastes more "tender"; I know my tastes will change as I refine my recipes, though. I would consider doing this recipe again, but FOR SURE baking it on a baking stone or set of tiles. 16" is a good pizza size, and I think it's a perfect amount of dough for a nice thin-crust style.

To get: a REAL pizza screen, or a set: maybe a 14" and a 16". It's handy and it's a confidence builder.

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