Sunday, August 30, 2009

gazpacho and fresh bread

It's a hot summer day today, so gazpacho seems to be a perfect fit. Great heirloom tomatoes from the Farmers market. Decided to try Mark Bittman's recipe from "Best Recipes In the World". I didn't have any "good quality stale bread", I decided to bake some of my own from the same book ("European White Bread"), with a little twist of my own.

Gazpacho

Makes a giant bowl, serves 4-6

2 lbs tomatoes (1 giant heirloom and 1 large tomato)
1/3 English cucumber, peeled
1 red pepper, cored and seeded
1 garlic clove, peeled
4 slices stale bread (or toasted Fresh Bread*) + water for soaking
1 or more tbsp. good quality spanish Sherry vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish
1 cup water (plus more, see notes)


Take a slice of tomato, a thin slice of red pepper, and some cucumber. Mince each and set aside as garnish.

Soak bread in water for 5 minutes, then drain, and squeeze out remaining water.

Rough chop tomatoes, cucumber, red pepper, and garlic. In two batches, add to food processor or blender, with about 1/2 cup water in each batch, puree until smooth.

Recombine in big soup bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Soak bread for 5 minutes in water, and squeeze out. In batches, add to blender, and puree for 3 minutes, add olive oil while running, puree for 1 more minute.

Strain thru chinois if a ultra-silky texture is required.

Garnish bowls with minced veggies.

Notes: Bittman calls for 6 cups of water! That's crazy! Jose Andres doesn't add any in one recipe I read, and adds only 2 cups in another. What is Bittman thinking? It appears cold water is added at the end to achieve a certain consistency. I think at most, 1 or maybe 2 cups water TOTAL is all that's necessary. Add more to improve a thin texture. I used 3 cups, and it was plenty, any more and it would be too watery.

Results:

  • Adding the bread and oil makes a very smooth, paler, creamy texture. The EVOO adds a pepperiness, depending on the style.
  • Very very delicious! Beckey and I really liked it.
  • Nice texture, very silky when thru chinois.
  • Vey refreshing! Great light dinner with a bottle of wine and some bread.



European White Bread

(Based on Bittman's recipe in "Best Recipes in the World"; I added sourdough starter for extra flavor, as well as a bit of olive oil for richness).

3 cups bread flour + 1 tbsp
2 tsp active dry yeast
1/2 cup sourdough starter
1 cup water
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp kosher salt

Combine flour, yeast, starter and water in mixer bowl. Knead on lowest setting with dough hook for 2 minutes. Cover and let rest for 20 min. Knead with dough hook for 20 minutes. Turn out onto a floured board, shape into round ball, and put in floured cloth proofing basket. Cover with inflated plastic bag (a fruit/veggie bag works well) and let rise for about 1 hour, until a little less than doubled.

At 1 hour, preheat the oven to 500 deg F. (Preheating will take about 30 min!)

Now watch your dough for the next 30 minutes or so. It was hot in the house today (probably about 78 degrees), and at 1.5 hours it was doubled but at 2 hours started to collapse. If it starts to collapse, probably overproofed, so it won't turn out as well, but still edible. Don't go more than 2 hours!

As soon as it's doubled, turn out gently onto well floured peel, slide onto baking stone, add 1 cup hot water to broiler pan at bottom, and bake for 30 minutes.

Remove and let cool on wire rack for 15-30 minutes before slicing.

Results:
  • Mine started to collapse, a bit overproofed. Didn't get a good oven spring, a fairly flat, biscotti height disk.
  • Pretty good crust browning & crunch and flavor, considering short rise time.
  • Try using milk instead of water!
  • I think possibly a little too wet. Cut down water (or milk) to 2/3 cup.
  • For next time, add 2 tbsp wheat germ or whole wheat flour; should give extra nuttiness

Monday, August 24, 2009

back from France

Had some great food, especially at Le Montrachet for lunch, incredible (but expensive - 190Euro) meal: 3 course lunch menu, with several amuse bouche & palate cleansers. Yum.

And the wine, ooohhhh...I love Puligny-Montrachet. We had either one of these (I don't know which one, I do know it was a 2007 Puligny-Montrachet):

Premier cru - François Carillon PULIGNY MONTRACHET « Les Folatières » 2007
Villages - Pascal PULIGNY MONTRACHET 2007
Villages - François Carillon PULIGNY MONTRACHET 2007

We also had
Marc Morey CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET « Morgeot » 2005, which was a nice red

Their current wine list is available online


On my last night in France, had andouillette, a grilled tripe sausage, at a bouchon called "Les Lyonnais" in Lyon. Despite others complaints about andouilette being stinky, I thought it was totally delicious and not stinky at all, in fact, very herby. I didn't know the interior of the sausage was tripe, but it was herby, garlicky and delicious.


Sunday, August 02, 2009

pizza sauce and garlic dipping sauce

Oh yeah, here is a copy of the PJ's Pizza sauce recipe:

Papa John's Pizza Sauce
1 10 3/4-ounce can of tomato puree
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/4 teaspoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon table salt
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/8 teaspoon dried basil
1/8 teaspoon dried thyme
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

1. Combine ingredients in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil.
2. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
Makes 1 cup.

Special Garlic Sauce
1/2 cup margarine spread
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1. Combine ingredients in a small bowl.
2. Microwave on 1/2 power for 20 seconds. Stir.

sourdough pizza #3

Was reading the Pizzamaking.com web site when I came across this recipe for Papa John's Pizza Sauce . More than the sauce, I was intrigued by another author's recipe for pizza dough:

3 C KA bread flour
1 1/3 C water
1/2 t ADY
1/2 t salt
1/2 t sugar

Then he did this:

"Proofed the ADY in 1/3 C of water and all the sugar. Then added the yeast mixture to 1 cup flour and mixed for 3-4 minutes (Kitchen Aid dough hook setting #1). Rest for 20 minutes. Added salt, and remainder of flour. Mixed for 13-15 minutes. Rest for 20 minutes. Placed into tupperware with a few drops of oil. Then into the refrigerator for 2 days...bench rise for 3-4 hours. Made 2 12" skins, topped, then into preheated stone at 500. Cooked in 7-8 minutes. Light and airy, and yet crisp. "

Made me rethink my hydrations, and using active dry yeast altogether. So here's another variation; bumping up water, wheat germ & sugar, and increasing ferment time.

Makes 1 large size pizza, perhaps 14-16".

3 c bread flour
1 c water
1/2 c active sourdough starter (I use my LBB starter)
2 tbsp wheat germ
2 tbsp canola oil
2 tbsp sugar
2 tsp table salt

  1. Add all ingredients except salt to mixing bowl.
  2. Mix using dough hook for 2 min. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 min.
  3. NOW ADD SALT. Mix with dough hook on speed 2 for 8 minutes. Dough will be soft and sticky.
  4. Place dough in oiled bowl covered with plastic wrap. Let rest for 2 hour at room temp.
  5. Refrigerate dough in bowl for 24-48 hours.
  6. Remove dough 3 hours before baking.
  7. 30 minutes before baking, preheat oven to 550 degrees; make sure your pizza stone is in there.
  8. Dip dough in flour & shake off excess. On a very well floured board, stretch dough into shape.
  9. Transfer dough to parchment paper on rimless baking sheet (or parchment on pizza peel)
  10. Slide pizza into oven, on stone, located 2nd shelf from top.
  11. Add 1 cup hot water to broiler pan at bottom of oven.
  12. Add toppings and bake for 10 minutes, or until crust is browned as desired.
Results:

  • Crust thickness (1=thin CPK, 3=normal PJ Dominos, 5=thick Chicago style): 3
  • Crust rise (1=no bubbles/some bubbling/5=big bubbles everywhere): 3
  • Crust crunch (1=eiscafe soft, 5=cracker hard): 2
  • Crust blistering (1=no blistering, 5=clear, perfect blistering): 2
  • Crust chew (1=not chewy,5=very chewy): 3
  • Crust doneness (1=dough still raw, 5=browned and cooked through): 2
  • Crust texture hole size (1=small, 3=med, 5=large): 3
  • Crust texture hole regularity (1=even, 3=a little irregular, 5=very irregular): 3.5
  • Crust browning: (1=pale/white, 3=browning, 5=chocolate brown): 1
  • Crust sourness (1=not sour, 5=very sour):1
Notes:

  • Dough by comparison to #1 was pretty dry; didn't stick to mixer bottom.
  • After 10 minutes, bottom was still pale, as though it didn't cook through, but it appeared cooked through.
  • When stretching the dough, it stretched nice and thin, and bubbles were visible throughout, just didn't bake out correctly.
  • Barely hints of sourness.
  • Wheat germ added nice nuttiness, but subtle
  • Crust was nice and tender
  • Would need to re-do this recipe, as was too pale

For Next Time
  • Rotate pizza 180 degrees after 1st 5 minutes.
  • Perhaps add more water?
  • Perhaps add less sugar, oil and salt?

Saturday, August 01, 2009

Sourdough pizza #2

Trying out some sourdough pizza dough again. This time doubling the recipe, should make one thick pizza. Based on CPK recipe but adding LBB starter.

I was watching Guy Fieri at a pizza place in Glendale, AZ. The guy made a wood fired pizza, oven temp was 800 deg F, and cooked pizza for 4 minutes. Cheese was bubbling like molten lava on top! My oven doesn't go that high :( But I'll make do. Decided to kick up oven temp to 550F this time, and it seemed to help. I also used bread flour this time instead of AP flour.

Makes 1 large size pizza, perhaps 14-16".

3 c bread flour
1/2 c + 1 tbsp water
1/2 c active sourdough starter (I use my LBB starter)
1 tbsp wheat germ
1.5 tsp active yeast
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp honey
2 tsp table salt

  1. Add all ingredients except salt to mixing bowl.
  2. Mix using dough hook for 2 min. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 20 min.
  3. NOW ADD SALT. Mix with dough hook for 8 minutes. Dough will be very soft and sticky.
  4. Place dough in oiled bowl covered with plastic wrap. Let rest for 2 hours at room temp. Dough will still be very soft and sticky.
  5. Refrigerate dough in bowl for 12 hours. (Went into fridge about 10:00pm or so).
  6. Remove dough 2 hours before baking. (came out at 10am from fridge, sat until 12 noon).
  7. 30 minutes before baking, preheat oven to 550 degrees; make sure your pizza stone is in there.
  8. Dip dough in flour & shake off excess. On a very well floured board, stretch dough into shape.
  9. Transfer dough to parchment paper on rimless baking sheet (or parchment on pizza peel)
  10. Slide pizza into oven, on stone, located 2nd shelf from top.
  11. Add 1 cup hot water to broiler pan at bottom of oven.
  12. Add toppings and bake for 10 minutes, or until crust is browned as desired.
Results:

  • Crust thickness (1=thin CPK, 3=normal PJ Dominos, 5=thick Chicago style): 3.5
  • Crust rise (1=no bubbles/some bubbling/5=big bubbles everywhere): 2.5
  • Crust crunch (1=eiscafe soft, 5=cracker hard): 3
  • Crust blistering (1=no blistering, 5=clear, perfect blistering): 3.5
  • Crust chew (1=not chewy,5=very chewy): 4
  • Crust doneness (1=dough still raw, 5=browned and cooked through): 5
  • Crust texture hole size (1=small, 3=med, 5=large): 2.5
  • Crust texture hole regularity (1=even, 3=a little irregular, 5=very irregular): 2.5
  • Crust browning: (1=pale/white, 3=browning, 5=chocolate brown): 4.3
  • Crust sourness (1=not sour, 5=very sour): 1
Notes:

  • Dough by comparison to #1 was pretty dry; didn't stick to mixer bottom.
  • Went a little hotter on the oven. Cooking time was exactly 10 minutes, which was perfect for this size pie and dough wetness.
  • Crust bottom was 85% perfect: wood-fired brown, more on one side than the other. Brown part was thin and cracker-like, while rest of interior was soft.

For Next Time
  • Try white sugar instead of honey, and possibly increase a little (2-3 tbsp)
  • Rotate pizza 180 degrees after 1st 5 minutes.
  • Try slightly more hydration (+3 tbsp water instead of +1)
  • Try 2 tbsp wheat germ instead of 1; couldn't really taste 1, didn't add significant nuttiness.