nanking sweet potatoes quest

11/27/2010: So Beckey bought some sweet potatoes for T-Day, and I'd been hankering to make the ones that I've had with the sesame chicken at the House of Nanking in San Francisco.

Years ago, I found a book of San Francisco recipes that listed how to make these. I remember making them at my mom's for Chrismas, I think, with Beckey, but they turned out just OK, maybe too much soy sauce.

So I tried two different versions this evening. Both were pretty good, but not exactly Nanking-style.

Here are the two versions; the basic procedure is the same, just the sauce recipe varies.

Nanking-style Sweet Potatoes V1

1/2 large sweet potato, sliced somewhere between 1/8" - 1/4" on mandoline

4c. canola oil

1 tsp sesame oil

1 green onion, sliced, for garnish

Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish (optional)

Directions

1. Combine all sauce ingredients in small saute pan over high heat. Bring to a boil, let reduce for 5 minutes, and turn off heat.
2. In small batches, fry sweet potatoes at 350-375F for 1 minute, then remove onto paper towels to drain and cool.
3. When first fry is complete, heat oil to 375F, and fry potatoes again in batches, for about 1 minute, remove and drain.
4. When complete, reheat sauce to boil, add potatoes to sauce, toss.
5. ADD SESAME OIL, AND TOSS.
6. Serve at once, garnished with green onions and sesame seeds.

Sauce V1

1/4c. light soy sauce

1/4c. rice wine vinegar

1/4c. white sugar

1 tsp worcheshire sauce

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp homemade pickled ginger (or fresh ginger)

Sauce V1 Results

• A bit too sweet and too salty
• Also a bit too much ginger
• Nice caramelization, I cooked for 10 minutes, maybe too caramelized, very thick and sticky

Sauce V2

3 tbsp light soy sauce

1/4c. rice wine vinegar

2 tbsp white sugar

1 tbsp mirin

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tsp worcheshire sauce

1 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp homemade pickled ginger (or fresh ginger)

1 pinch red chili flakes

Sauce V2 results

• Better balance
• A bit spicy; omit chili flakes next time
• Still maybe too garlicky

FOR NEXT TIME (Sauce V3):

• Less soy sauce (2 tbsp)
• Add chicken stock (1/4c) and let reduce
• Try re-adding worcheshire?

True Spanish Tortilla

Ah, the true Spanish omelette, called tortilla in Spain, is served breakfast, lunch, dinner and for snacks; is served hot or cold; and can incorporate any number of fillings.

I like it pure and traditional: just egg, potato and onion. Sure, a little chorizo and truffle oil can be nice too, but totally not necessary; the "plain vanilla" version is immensely satisfying.

I made this for B's folks over Thanksgiving again; they loved it and asked for the recipe.

Spanish Tortilla (Tortilla Espanola)
Serves 2-4

1 recipe Aioli (recipe follows)
6 large eggs
3 medium yellow potatoes (like Yukon Gold or other yellow), peeled
1/2 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 cup olive oil
Salt

1. Make Aioli and set aside (recipe follows).
   
2. Cut potatoes lengthwise into quarters, then thinly slice across into 1/8" thick "pie wedge" shapes (a handheld slicer or food processor works really well for this).
   
3. Spread potatoes out on cookie sheet, and dry off slices with paper towels. Salt generously.
   
4. In a large pan heat olive oil over high heat. Add sliced potatoes, and turn down heat immediately to medium. Cook for 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Don't let the potatoes brown!
   
5. NOW ADD SLICED ONION.
6. Cook for about 15 minutes, until potatoes are soft. Again, no browning!
   
7. Drain potatoes in collander, reserving leftover oil. Taste potatoes, season with more salt as necessary. Let rest for 5 minutes.
   
8. Now, in medium mixing bowl, crack eggs, and whisk until just after yolks are broken (eggs will have yellow and clear streaks in it still).
9. SEASON EGGS WITH SALT.
   
10. Mix potatoes back into eggs, and stir gently to combine.
11. Let potato/egg mixture rest for 10 minutes
12. Heat a 8" non-stick skillet with 2 tbsp of leftover oil over medium heat.
    
13. Add potato/egg mixture (it will be near the top of the pan).
14. Using spatula, cook for 5 minutes, moving runny eggs under cooked eggs, scraping sides of skillet often.
    
15. Put a plate with no lip to cover the skillet. In one motion, flip tortilla onto plate.
    
16. Add 1 tbsp oil back to skillet. Carefully slide the tortilla from the plate back to the skillet.
    
17. Cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, shaking the skillet every 10 seconds or so.
18. Flip the tortilla over again (using the plate method described before), and WITHOUT OIL back into the skillet for 1 minute.
    
19. Flip the tortilla one last time, and cook for 1 minute. (Totals: 5 minutes, flip, 3 minutes, flip, 1 minute, flip, 1 minute, remove from skillet)
    
20. Once removed from skillet, let rest uncovered 5 minutes.
21. Slice tortilla into quarters. Serve warm or room temperature, slathered with Aioli.
22. Refrigerate leftovers; will keep for about 3 days.

Aioli
Yields about 1/2 cup

1/2 cup mayonnaise (do NOT substitute Miracle Whip!)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
Salt + pepper

Whisk all ingredients to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Let rest for at least 30 minutes. Taste again and adjust seasonings. Use as needed, or refrigerate up to 5 days.